Scots have embraced Indian cuisine with the same enthusiasm that marked their acceptance of others over the past century, an endearing habit that is made the more so by their firm adherence to their own, which they have been amused, flattered even, to see absorbed by the newcomers. Hence it comes as no surprise to find that at Mezbaan, Edinburgh's only South Indian restaurant, one can order a good blend of Scottish vegetarian haggis with Indian spices in gram flour batter under the name of haggis pakora.

South Indian food has as its supreme virtue the fact that it is mostly non greasy, roasted and steamed. Not only does this encourage the delicate flavours, it also does justice to a cuisine that carries a large selection of vegetarian dishes, mainly due to the hot, humid climate, a characteristic that could not always be said to apply to Scotland. Nonetheless, this fresh approach to Indian food is going down well in Edinburgh, perhaps at least partly because it is perceived as a more natural diet than some.

Chefs Sohan Lal and Aji Kumar are equally capable with both North and South Indian dishes, especially the latter, and have established a reputation for cooking with integrity and precision, working from three menus, lunch, dining, and takeaway, often referred to by Scots as "carry-oot". Either way it tastes just as good.