Neighbourhood restaurants seem to be on the growth these days, very good news too. Even better news when they are categorised as bistros, implying an even greater ease of ambience. In Europe they know all about neighbourhood restaurants, perhaps this is one of the more tangible benefits of EU membership?

In talking to chefs the world over one of the things I want to know is where do they eat on their night off? Their answers are often my next port of call. For an increasing number in Edinburgh the answer is "First Coast". You can quickly tell why after even only a few minutes of talking with the MacRae brothers from Skye, whose gaff this is.

Here are people genuinely interested in genuine food, for whom quality is everything. Combined with an intelligent simplicity of cooking that pays homage to the integrity of the materials, their dishes, which average around £12, possess a quality that is memorable.