Actually, the brasserie description may be ever so slightly misleading, but not so as to cause any real problems. An old WW2 steam trawler, the ship has adapted remarkably well, and the gentle and occasional movement is mildly suggestive of a cruise down the Forth, though be assured Cruz never leaves her berth.

On reflection I think the menu is a touch daring, the sort of place where haggis towers, which sounds rather like a new development in the classier end of Edinburgh, are the norm, oysters, and smoked salmon vie with a medley of Scottish smoked fish dressed with horseradish cream.

Main courses offer a 10 oz Aberdeen Angus sirloin steak, grilled and served with your choice of sauce, roast Orkney rack of lamb, or a grilled Scottish lobster salad served in its shell with lemon and garlic mayonnaise.

All this excellent eating is done against a background of a short wine list and a very long cocktail list which collectively should ensure that even the slightest list to port or starboard goes entirely unnoticed. Cruz makes a welcome addition to the rapidly developing area of Leith.