This historic institution is a wonderful place in which to regain your equilibrium after having had your first glimpse of the new Scottish Parliament building. Founded as a bar and restaurant in 1817 it moved to its present premises in the heyday of Victorian building and, having survived WW2 had a narrow escape later when Woolworths sought the site.

There are two rooms, a bar with honest leather seats which offers a limited menu chosen by somebody who knows a great deal about the relationship between people and food. In the restaurant we move to higher planes with fresh fish, shellfish and game, served amidst highly decorative surroundings featuring exotic plasterwork, mahogany panelling and the famed Doulton Murals. A typical dish could be collops of wild Highland venison with a bitter chocolate and red wine jus.

An interesting wine list draws heavily on France but also travels into other old world and, increasingly, new world sources. Prices throughout are outstandingly reasonable and whilst this is not necessarily the best reason for going there it does round off well a whole series of other ones.